Loss of power, misfires 2000-3000 RPM, codes P2240 and P2237

[racer2086]

This car is brand new to me, so I'm just going off what doesn't feel normal to me.

When accelerating, especially in higher gears under load, at 50% or greater throttle, there are noticable misfires in the 2-3k rpm range. You can feel it as the car is basically hesitating at each misfire. I don't want to describe it as a jerk, but you can definitely feel it. If I back off the throttle, I don't feel the skipping.

Sometimes it will throw an SES light. I pulled codes and the only ones that come up are P2240 (current) and P2237 (pending).

The torque app on my phone describes them as:
P2240 O2 sensor positive current control circuit/open bank 2 sensor 1
P2237 O2 sensor positive current control circuit/open bank 1 sensor 1

I couldn't find definitive answers online when I googled. People were saying they had their DMEs reprogrammed because they were "too sensitive". That doesn't seem like a correct fix.

And so often these O2 sensors end up being something else like coils, a vacuum leak, etc.

[BADCLOWN]

I had a bad coil pack with the same issues you Are describing with my first ZHP

[racer2086]

Is there any way to diagnose the coil packs before just buying new ones? I don't have a smoke machine, but I'll spray some carb cleaner around to check for leaks after a visual inspection.

[racer2086]

Reading around, everyone seems to say to get the DME reprogrammed because the original tolerances are too tight for things after wear and age. I'm thinking this is more of a bandaid, and that there is probably age/wear with some parts that are causing that. Thoughts? I can do new coils and MAF (if there are no vacuum leaks) since the O2s were done with new Bosch ones a few years and 20k miles ago. BUT I don't want to spend money if that's not gonna make a difference.

[az3579]

Reading around, everyone seems to say to get the DME reprogrammed because the original tolerances are too tight for things after wear and age.

I'm not sure why anyone would say that because it doesn't even make sense. Wear is a physical property; software programming won't do anything to change that. Plus, wear isn't going to cause the problems you're having.





I can do new coils and MAF (if there are no vacuum leaks) since the O2s were done with new Bosch ones a few years and 20k miles ago. BUT I don't want to spend money if that's not gonna make a difference.

As I mentioned in the other thread, try unplugging the MAF to see if your driveability issue goes away (stumbling above 50% throttle). If it does, you will probably need a new MAF. It's one of the few items that affects both banks, like your codes are saying (bank 1+2 O2-related codes). The MAF helps adjust air/fuel mixture as well as the pre-cat O2 sensors, so they're related.

[racer2086]

Yes forgot to do that. Will give it a try.

Few other things to note:
I notice the idle sometimes hunts up and down maybe 50 to 100 rpm. Very subtle.
Very occasionally the engine will falter at idle almost like it wants to stall.
It has stalled on me twice. I thought maybe it was me, but now I'm not thinking so.

I started poking around under the hood yesterday. Sprayed some carb cleaner on some of the hoses with no obvious changes. There sounds like a loud hiss under the middle plastic cover next to the intake runners. I'm not sure if that's normal or what (I hear hissing in my 7 when the acoustic cover is off...it's just air in the intake). BUT when I pull the dipstick out a bit, the idle goes up. Put it back, and it goes right back down. Does that mean my CCV is bad?

[Fried_Chicken]

Before starting with the big ones, check the basics: spark plugs? Air filter? Fuel Filter? MAF? O2 Sensor?

Then the bigger ones:
Coils packs
DME needs reprogramming

The DME issue is quite common, and I had a jutter in that RPM range until I updated the software.

[GotZHP]

I am currently working through a very similar problem with my ZHP and have come to the conclusion that it is either the DME or I need a new O2 sensor. I only have the p2240 code, so I know it is bank specific.

If you go to E46Fanatics, you can find a user there by the name of Balidawg. If you send him a PM he will send you instructions on how he can update you DME remotely for free!!

All you need it the Dkan INPA cable (pretty sure that is what it is called), a computer, and an App called Teamster. I bought the cable for $15 on Ebay and am waiting for it to arrive. He is very well vouched for and does several E46s a week, with a bunch of ZHPs as of late. Since the flash is free and you only need one cable, I'd recommend this as your starting point.

Next, I would get an OBDII to bluetooth adapter and download OBDFusion, together this will cost you around $30 - $50 dollars depending on which one you get. With these tools you can run a datalog and pinpoint your exact issue.

These items are what I consider basic and required diagnostic tools. I always recommend buying the tools / tech rather than going to the dealership for "diagnostics". First, everything I described will cost less than there fee by far. Second, next time a code pops up, you can diagnose it yourself, and not pay the dealership again.

Feel free to reach out to me if you have any questions! I've done a shit load of research and am returning to this forum after some time of absence and will be active once again!
Below is a screenshot from my datalog I took yesterday. This is showing O2 voltage readouts. Both should be around .7V on a normally operating E46. As you can see, one of them is reading below .1v, which indicates a problem.

I'm starting with the DME flash first because it is only costing me 15 bucks for the cable. If this does not rid my p2240 code, I know by process of elimination that I need a new bank 2 sensor 1 O2 sensor.

Best of luck mate!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190308/0f339adb3e4526a29c33b0374e6cf52f.jpg

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[GotZHP]

Also, forgot to say that the 2,800k stumble is a very very common problem. The best answer to fixing this, or making it less noticeable is a DME flash! So kill two birds with one stone

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[GotZHP]

Sorry on my phone and having some issues, I blame lack of coffee. But the hiss sound is normal. Threw me off at first but I just smoked tested the car and I no longer have vacuum leaks or my lean codes for either bank.

On YouTube, you can find many good videos of ppl smoke testing an E46 and again I recommend buying the tools needed to do it yourself. All you need is a siphon pump ( I bought a pennzoil one at home depot for $10) and a $1 cigar from any gas station. I dont recommend spraying carb cleaner at the engine and waiting for rpm fluctuations. Use the siphon pump method.

I did this last week and identified 3 vacuum leaks in under 5 minutes. Intake boot tear(even though boot was less than 2 years old, never buy non genuine parts :/), vacuum caps on back of manifold crumbling from age, and my air oil separator in my CCV system was missing a vacuum cap.

Again, if you have any questions feel free to reach out to me with a PM but a quick Google search should get you the info you need.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190308/7edc33f7db2d9a6d04f065288bcad1f7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190308/34f963d068f51c820285995407344ef1.jpg

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[johnrando]

What platform do you recommend running Teamster on?

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[GotZHP]

What platform do you recommend running Teamster on?

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https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1081716

That is the e46fanatics link to the instructions from BaliDawg, real nice dude in SoCal. The remote program is called TeamViewer, was wrong before. I believe it is Windows based and you can download it and do a free trial for the update.

https://www.teamviewer.com/en-us/teamviewer-automatic-download/

Balidawg knows all the exacts and he is real responsive. I haven't completed the process yet as I am still waiting on my cable to arrive.

NOTE - You need the cable with the switch in it!!! Still is only $15 on Ebay. There are others for around $50, but I don't think you need to buy the expensive one

[racer2086]

GotZHP, thanks for the great info!

I haven't been on in a bit...so busy with work.

TeamViewer is a VNC program that allows remote control of the computer. I have DIS, INPA, and all the BMW software, so I should be able to update the DME myself. BUT, I was trying not to do this. That may sound crazy, but here's my thinking: the DME software was programmed with "tighter tolerances" and really was fine for most people until about the 100k mark. That to me sounds like something else changed, and instead of BMW spending time and/or parts trying to figure out what really was the cause, they fixed it with a "bandaid", which was simply reprogramming the software to either adjust the timing/fuel/whatever to cover up for it. So really, I would like to explore a bit and find out if I can isolate a part or something that could be causing it.

That being said, I actually bought one of those compact smoke machines on ebay. More than the $20 of using a cigar and pump, but I'll use it on all my cars and it'll pay for itself. I haven't gotten around to using it yet, though. I do think I will find some vacuum leaks.

I have the Torque app for android which works with a bluetooth reader. I hooked it up and both O2 sensors measure around 0.7 if I recall. I will have to add the logging screen, as that will let me take it up to those RPMs and see what's happening. For the most part, I get the P2240 code. It'll come on some days and after a few key cycles the SES will go off. Once I got the P2237 code for the other bank, but that was it. I'm almost 100% sure it's not my O2 sensors. They were replaced at 80k with Bosch and the car runs too good and gets too good of mileage to be an actual O2 issue. And that would be too easy ;).

Because it is mostly a bank 2 code, I'm wondering if it is a vacuum leak affecting one bank of cylinders more than another. I also haven't unplugged the MAF to test as the other member suggested. Sleep, work, eat, repeat.

I have to say I love this car so far, except for this problem. Some days it's so down on power it is infuriating. Others, it runs pretty good. But it is maddening having that stumble right in that sweet spot of the RPM band, which is right where I use on the highway when passing.

One other thing to note, related or not, is that there is a hesitation when getting back into the throttle from coasting. It is very noticeable the more you stab the throttle and happens at any RPM. Go from 0% throttle to 20%, there is a half second dip hesitation and then fine. It doesn't seem to matter what RPM the car is running at. I also notice it sometimes taking off from a stop or shifting. May or may not be related.

[GotZHP]

GotZHP, thanks for the great info!

I haven't been on in a bit...so busy with work.

TeamViewer is a VNC program that allows remote control of the computer. I have DIS, INPA, and all the BMW software, so I should be able to update the DME myself. BUT, I was trying not to do this.


DONT!

This is an extremely complicated process and if you do it wrong, you can brick your DME. With my BRZ I did all my own engine tuning, but with the ZHP, I am staying far away from the DME for now. Only once I get a spare to run on a bench setup will I play around with it. Balidawg will do it for free, so I recommend leaving to him since has done a hundred or so easily.


Another source for the vacuum leak could be the intake manifold gaskets. This was an issue on my car. I did the CCV at the same time as I did the gaskets since CCV was easier with the manifold off anyways.

[GotZHP]

As for the coil packs, I know there are some testing procedures but I am not familiar with them and have never done them before. Along with 50sKid, I really like RnWs (ratchets and wrenches) youtube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcmWa2Bt12U

Looks like you can measure resistance, and if you get different results, you should be able to pinpoint the ones that are going bad. I'm sure there are other videos out there as well. YouTube and the forums will quickly become your best friend now that you own a ZHP.

I replaced all my coil packs at around 110,000 miles and put in new plugs as well. They were the originals, I was rebuilding and doing maintenance anyways, and figured they were bound to fail sooner rather than later.

[racer2086]

Ok I won't update it myself. You have thoroughly scared me enough :)

I'm hoping I will have some time to smoke test it this weekend. I will post back

[GotZHP]

Ok I won't update it myself. You have thoroughly scared me enough :)

I'm hoping I will have some time to smoke test it this weekend. I will post back

Great, keep us updated! post here or send a PM if you need any help. I'll be on my laptop a air amount this weekend.

[racer2086]

Ok so a month later and I finally have some updates. I had INPA hooked up to the car for some other stuff and took a look at the DME. The fuel adaptations are way off. Bank 1 and Bank 2 are 99.xx out of a 100. So that has to mean the car is putting in extra fuel for some reason?

I smoke tested the car yesterday. I didn't see a lick of a leak. Zero smoke. I'm pretty sure I did it right -- I mean this isn't a complicated procedure.

So that leaves me back to square one with this consistent misfiring around 3k RPM and now these fuel adaptations that are off. Also, I noticed the idle tends to hunt a little up and down. Some days more than others. Is there an idle control valve on these cars?

I will drive home at lunch with the MAF unplugged. I don't have high hopes for that, because last time I tried that with my E38 it would barely run.

I can test the coils I guess.

Other than that, I do not know what else would be causing these issues. Why would the fuel adaptations be so off without a vacuum leak? What would cause the misfiring that sometimes throws the O2 sensor codes?

Can there be a secondary air system leak letting excess O2 into the exhaust manifold and tricking the O2 sensors?

[racer2086]

Just drove home on lunch with MAF unplugged. Car seems to run the same. Maybe a hair better? The idle seems a little more stable, and the misfiring is still there at 3k, but maybe not as bad, but hard to tell.

Here's what I did notice: when my foot is on the brake and the clutch is fully depressed, the car will hunt for idle. With MAF unplugged, it hunts bad from 500 up to 1000 rpm. With MAF plugged in, it hunts but not as bad, maybe within 100-200 rpm. This ONLY happens with brake and clutch depressed. Not one or the other. What's the deal with that?

Occasionally the car will stall at idle. Just randomly. This makes me wonder if there is a cam sensor issue? Or could still be a MAF issue. I've had experiences with BMWs in the past stalling due to cam sensors. Not sure which of those if either could be the cause of the stumbling/misfiring at 2800-3000 rpm.

[racer2086]

Wanted to update this.

I smoke tested the car and replaced all 6 coils with Delphi coils. Below is a pic of #5 and #6 original Bosch coils. While I never would have said the car wasn't smooth before, the coil replacement definitely made a difference in the smoothness and the pep of the car. The throttle is so much more responsive and the car feels more powerful no doubt. It honestly feels like the old "green" mode on my sprint booster now without it on. Granted, I reset all adaptations again after replacing the coils. But even doing that on my old coils didn't make much of a difference.

I ran some Marvel Mystery oil in the gas tank for the last couple tanks on my old coils. That helped the 2800-3000 jitter a little. But now with these new coils, it is 90% gone. I've only driven for a day this way and only felt it once stabbing the throttle in 3rd gear. It used to be that any sweeping acceleration through 3rd I could feel it, but now it is gone enough for me to forget about it.

The smoke test was interesting. There is zero leaks out the intake or any of the hoses. With the dipstick in and oil cap on, my smoke cone will push itself out of the intake tube due to the pressure build up. So that's a good sign. However, with the coil cap off, I get smoke coming out the valve cover. Doesn't that indicate a PCV system issue? Nothing comes out the dipstick.

Attached is a picture of coil #5 and #6. 1-4 looked just like #6, but #5 is clearly all fouled up. I pulled the plug on that cylinder also in order to clean the plug itself, which was also covered in the same sooty carbon. The plug itself looked fine. All plugs were replaced by the PO with BMW plugs about 4k miles ago. I double checked they were tight while in there.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48036784206_5731ce8164_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48036891857_545d3b2ec4_b.jpg

[racer2086]

What does it mean if smoke comes out the oil cap during a smoke test?

the coils improve things a little bit and made the car feel peppier but after it readapted to stuff the stuttering is still there. So I am planning on getting the DME flashed, but want to make sure there isn't something wrong if smoke comes out my valve cover during a smoke test...